The Cuisine of Kerala
Introduction
(Malayalam: കേരളീയ പാചകശൈലി) The cuisine of Kerala is linked in all its richness to the history, geography, demography and culture of the land. Since many of Kerala's Hindus are vegetarian by religion, and because Kerala has large minorities of Muslims and Christians that are predominantly non-vegetarians, Kerala cuisine has a multitude of both vegetarian and dishes prepared using fish, poultry and meat.
For over 2000 years, Kerala has been visited by ocean-goers, including traders from Greece, Rome, the eastern Mediterranean, Arab countries, and Europe (see History of Kerala). Thus, Kerala cuisine is a blend of indigenous dishes and foreign dishes adapted to Kerala tastes. Coconuts grow in abundance in Kerala, and consequently, grated coconut and coconut-milk are widely used in dishes and curries as a thickener and flavouring ingredient. In fact, the literal meaning of Kerala is Land of Coconuts Kerala's long coastline, numerous rivers and backwater networks, and strong fishing industry have contributed to many sea- and river-food based dishes. Rice is grown in abundance, and could be said, along with tapioca (manioc/cassava), to be the main starch ingredient used in Kerala food. In Kerala, Tapioca is known as the poor mans starch. Having been a major production area of spices for thousands of years, black pepper, cardamom, cloves, ginger, and cinnamon play a large part in its food.
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Spices in Kerala Cuisine
As with almost all Indian food, spices play an important part in Kerala cuisine. The main spices used are cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, green and red peppers, cloves, garlic, cumin seeds, coriander, turmeric, and so on. Few fresh herbs are used, unlike in European cuisine, and mainly consist of the commonly used curry leaf, and the occasional use of fresh coriander and mint. Tamarind, Kodampuli
( botanical name: Garcinia Cambogia) from the Cocum family, and lime are used to make gravies sour, as sour sauces are very popular in Kerala. Sweet and sour dishes are however, rare, but exceptions like the ripe mango version of the pulissery and tamarind-jaggery-ginger chutney known as pulinji or injipuli are popular.
Historical and cultural influences
Pre-independence Kerala was split into the princely states of Travancore and Kochi in the south, and the Malabar district in the north; the erstwhile split is reflected in the recipes and cooking style of each area. Both Travancore and Malabar cuisine consists of a variety of vegetarian dishes using many vegetables and fruits that are not commonly used in curries elsewhere in India including plantains, bitter gourd ('paavaykka'), taro ('chena'), Colocasia ('chembu'), Ash gourd ('kumbalanga'), etc. However, their style of preparation and names of the dishes may vary. Malabar has an array of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes such as pathiri (a sort of rice-based pancake, at times paired with a meat curry), porotta (a layered flatbread, said to come from South-East Asia), and the Kerala variant of the popular biriyani, probably from Arab lands. Central Travancore region boasts of a parade of dishes that is largely identified with the Christians of the region.
In addition to historical diversity, the cultural influences, particularly the large percentages of Muslims and Syrian Christians have also contributed unique dishes and styles to Kerala cuisine, especially non-vegetarian dishes. The meat eating habit of the people has been historically limited by religious taboos. Brahmins eschew non vegetarian items. However, most of modern day Hindus do not observe any dietary taboos, except a few who belong to upper caste (Nambudiris, Nairs of Malabar). Muslims do not eat pork and other items forbidden by Islamic law.
Based on the religions and topography, “Keraliya paachaka shailee” is sub divided into three distinct but very overlapping categories. The differences show up only in a few of the dishes which are a speciality that are made on religious occasions. The three categories are Hindu cuisine, Malabar and Syrian Christian cuisine; all three of which are discussed upon in the following pages.
Hindu Cuisine
Being a Hindu state from the very beginning, almost everything that all the other cuisines have is similar or slightly modified version of the original Hindu cuisine in Kerala; all but with a few variations giving way to the vast diversity to Keralite cuisine. To understand it furthermore we shall discuss the other two cuisines.
Malabar Cuisine
Malabar forming the northern Kerala is a mix of cultures. Malabar cuisine is noted for its variety of pancakes and steamed rice cakes made from pounded rice. Malabar food is generally mildly flavoured and gently cooked.
The mutton is cooked tender, the rice flaky and delicately spiced with the right portions of condiments, to leave the taste lingering for long. That is the special brand of Malabari Moppila biriyani. Biriyani - whether mutton, chicken, fish or prawn - is the USP of Malabar cuisine.
The mutton is cooked tender, the rice flaky and delicately spiced with the right portions of condiments, to leave the taste lingering for long. That is the special brand of Malabari Moppila biriyani. Biriyani - whether mutton, chicken, fish or prawn - is the USP of Malabar cuisine.
Syrian Christian (Suriani)
The cuisine of the state of Kerala, India, is influenced by its large Christian minority. A favourite dish of Kerala Syrian Christians is stew: chicken, potatoes and onions simmered gently in a creamy white sauce flavoured with black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, green chillies, lime juice, shallots and coconut milk. They also prepare stews with chicken, lamb, and duck.
Other dishes include piralen (chicken stir-fries), meat thoran (dry curry with shredded coconut), fiery vindaloos, sardine and duck curries, and meen molee (spicy stewed fish). This is eaten with appam. Appams, kallappams, or vellayappams are rice flour pancakes which have soft, thick white spongy centres and crisp, lace-like edges. Meen vevichathu (fish in fiery red chilli sauce) is another favourite item.
In addition to chicken and fish, Syrian Christians also eat red meat. For example, erachi orlarthiathu is a beef or mutton dish cooked with spices.
Traditional Kerala Cooking Equipments
Traditional Kerala cooking involved the use of some quaint equipment and primitive fires. These equipment depended on human effort (instead of electric power) to pound, grind, blend and cook. This was available in sufficient quantities in the predominantly rural and agricultural Kerala households.
The equipment and practices are becoming almost extinct and we thought it would be a good idea to record these before the specimens disappear completely.
The hand pounder pictured right was used to de-husk paddy and to powder grains and other foodstuff. The paddy or other material was put in the largish cup in the middle, and the long pole was used to pound it (just right) to produce rice or powder.
The ammi pictured left was used to make pastes. For example, coconut gratings might be put at one end, water added in small quantities and the round stone was rolled over the material to turn them into a paste. When spices like chillies and ginger were added to the coconut, the resulting paste would be chutney.
The wet grinder (pic right) was used to make different kinds of pastes. A typical use was for making iddali or dosa paste. Rice and water were put in the cup and the heavy stone worked round and round by hand to convert it into a liquid paste. Next urad dal and water were converted into paste similarly. The two pastes were mixed and fermented overnight to make the mixture that was the raw material for iddali and dosa.
The hand mill pictured left seems to be one item that is yet to have a modern version. It is used to split dals like black gram and green gram. After splitting and soaking, it becomes quite easy to remove the husk and process the dals. Split and soaked black gram is ground into a liquid batter for iddali and dosa. Split green gram is used as an ingredient in curries. The hand mill could also be used to granulate grains.
Cooking was done in mud pots over an open fire (see pic left). Three stones placed at three corners supported the pot above the fire. In these days, open fires have been replaced by "smokeless" wood-burners which draw the smoke away through pipes.
Burning firewood is still practiced in rural areas, even where gas and electricity are available. In a typical rural household, there would be a plentiful supply of combustible materials - dry branches and twigs, dry leaves and so on. It would be wasteful to let these rot and use more modern (and far more expensive) fuel.
In practice, few Kerala households use even one of these traditional methods now. At best, there might be a smokeless wood-burner. Mostly however, it is electric grinders, gas or electric stoves and stainless steel utensils that you would find in today's kitchen.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENTS:
- Chembu: It is a vessel made out of copper or brass used for steaming or boiling food. Now aluminium is more frequently used.
- Puttu kuti: It is used for steaming rice flour paste called puttu. It has a round base pot in which water is boiled, and a tall cylindrical tube above this base in which rice flour and coconut are layered and steamed.
- Cheena chatti: Literally meaning “Chinese pot”, this is a round-bottomed vessel with two handles similar to a wok. The round bottom spreads the heat evenly through the base and into the food; which makes it ideal for sautéing and deep frying.
- Appam chatti: This is a heavy round bottomed vessel made of iron with a lid similar to the cheena chatti. It is used to prepared stews.
- Kalam: It is a large rice vessel in which water, tapioca or rice is boiled.
- Urali: This is a wide mouthed squat vessel made of bell metal which gradually warms up and retains heat for a long time. It is multipurpose: it is used to fry and roast meat, to cook halwas and to dry roast rice flour.
- Meen chatti: It is a round bottomed earthen pot used to prepare fish curries.
INSIGHT INTO A TRADITIONAL KITCHEN:
In the traditional homes of Kerala called tharavads, the cooking centres around the hearth, that has four to six stoves called adupus. Chopping and food preparation is accomplished on the kitchen table, using little wood handled knives for vegetables and a large cleaver for meat and seafood. Equally important is the little stone mortar and pestle in which small amounts of spices or chillies are crushed or pounded.
The kitchen countertop holds the grinding stone on which most of the daily spices are crushed or ground. It also contains several large blocks of wood on which meat and fish are chopped. A deep stone sink for pot wash can be found in a smaller room adjoining the kitchen.
A storeroom, adjacent to the kitchen is where large reserves of staples and farm produce are kept. Larger homes have separate rooms for various tasks. For e.g., the granary or nellu ara is a large wooden room within the kitchen where the food grains are stored, or the ora pera, which is a large room in which large amounts of rice flour, halwa and snacks called palaharam are prepared.
Many traditional kitchens function in the above manner even today with a smaller modern kitchen close to the main kitchen, housing conveniences like gas stoves, electric grinders, microwave ovens and coffee makers.
A Typical Day
Breakfast
Kerala cuisine offers many delicious vegetarian breakfast dishes that are often relatively unknown outside the state. These include Puttu (made of rice powder and grated coconut, steamed in a metal or bamboo holder) and kadala (a curry made of black garbanzo beans (chana), iddali (fluffy rice pancakes), sambar, dosa and chutney, pidiyan, Idiyappam (string hoppers - also known as Noolputtu and Nool-Appam), Paal-Appam, a circular, fluffy, crisp-edged pancake made of rice flour fermented with a small amount of toddy or wine, etc. Idiyapam and Paalappam are accompanied by mutton, chicken or vegetable stew or a curry of beef or fish moilee (the most common dish is fish in a coconut based sauce).
Lunch and dinner
The staple food of Kerala, like most South-Indian states, is rice. Unlike other states, however, many people in Kerala prefer parboiled rice (Choru) (rice made nutritious by boiling it with rice husk). Kanji (rice congee), a kind of rice porridge, is also popular. Tapioca, called kappa in Kerala, is popular in central Kerala and in the highlands, and is frequently eaten with fish curry
Rice is usually consumed with one or more curries. Accompaniments with rice may include upperis (dry braised or sautéed vegetables), rasam, chips, and/or buttermilk (called moru). Vegetarian dinners usually consist of multiple courses, each involving rice, one main dish (usually sambar, rasam, puli-sherry), and one or more side-dishes. Kerala cooking uses coconut oil almost exclusively, although health concerns and cost have led to coconut oil being replaced to some extent by palm oil and vegetable oil.
Popular vegetarian dishes include sambar, aviyal, Kaalan, theeyal, thoran (dry curry), pulisherry (morozhichathu in Cochin and the Malabar region), olan, erisherry, pulinji, payaru (mung bean), kappa (tapioca), etc. Vegetarian dishes often consist of fresh spices that are liquefied and crushed to make a paste-like texture to dampen rice.
Common non-vegetarian dishes include stew (using chicken, beef, lamb, or fish), traditional or chicken curry (Nadan Kozhi Curry), chicken fry (Kozhi Porichathu/Varuthathu), fish/chicken/mutton molly(fish or meat in light gravy), fish curry (Meen Curry), fish fry (Karimeen Porichathu/Varuthathu), lobster fry (Konchu Varuthathu), Spicy Beef Fry (Beef Ularthiyathu), Spicy Steamed Fish (Meen Pollichathu) etc. Biriyani, a Mughal dish consists of rice cooked along with meat, onions, chillies and other spices.
Although rice and tapioca may be considered the original Kerala starch staples, wheat, in the form of chappatis or parathas (known as porottas in Kerala), is now very commonly eaten, especially at dinner time. Numerous little streetside vendors offer an oily parathas (akin to the croissant in its flakiness and oiliness) with meat, egg, or vegetable curry for dinner. Grains such as ragi and millet, although common in the arid parts of South India, have not gained a foothold in Kerala
Sweets and Desserts
Due to limited influence of Central Asian food on Kerala, the use of sweets is not as widespread as in North India. Kerala does not have any indigenous cold desserts, but hot/warm desserts are popular. The most popular example is undoubtedly the payasam: a preparation of milk, coconut extract, sugar, cashews, dry grapes, etc. Payasam can be made with many base constituents, including Paal payasam (made from rice), Ada payasam (with Ada, a flat form of rice), Paripu payasam (made from dal), Pazham pradhamam (made from banana), Gothambu payasam (made from wheat). Ada payasam is especially popular during the festival of Onam. Most payasams can also be consumed chilled. Jaggery or molasses is a common sweetening ingredient, although white sugar is gaining ground. Fruit, especially the small yellow bananas, are often eaten after a meal or at any time of the day. Plantains, uncooked or steamed, are popularly eaten for breakfast or tea.
Other popular sweets include Unniappam (a fried banana bread), pazham-pori (plantain slices covered with a fried crust made of sweetened flour), and kozhukkatta (rice dumplings stuffed with a sweet mixture of molasses, coconut etc.). Cakes, ice-creams, cookies and puddings are equally common. Generally, except for payasam, most sweets are not eaten as dessert but as a tea-time snack.
Pickles and other side-dishes
Kerala cuisine also has a variety of pickles and chutneys, and crunchy pappadums, banana chips, jackfruit chips, kozhalappam, achappam, cheeda, and churuttu.
Beverages
Being mostly a hot and humid area, Keralites have developed a variety of drinks to cope with thirst. A variety of what might be called herbal teas is served during mealtimes. Cumin seeds, ginger or coriander seeds are boiled in water and served warm or at room temperature. In addition to the improved taste, the spices also have digestive and other medicinal properties. Sambharam, a diluted buttermilk often flavoured with ginger, lime leaves, green chilli peppers etc. was very commonly drunk, although it has been replaced to some extent by soda pop. Coffee and tea (both hot) drunk black, or with milk and white sugar or unrefined palm sugar (karippatti), are commonly drunk. Numerous small shops dotted around the land sell fresh lime juice (called naranga vellam, or bonji sarbat in Malayalam), and many now offer milk shakes and other fruit juices.
Best Dishes : | Meen Moilee, Mutton Biryani, Theeyal, Duck Roast with Malabar Porotta, Chilly Fried Crabs, Lacy Idiappam, Crisp Meen Porichathu, Appam with Mena Curry, Fresh Toddy, Parippu Kari, Kuttanad Fish Curry, Chemmeen Coconut Fry, Fish Korma. |
Cuisine Exotica : | Puttu, Vattayappam, Kallappam, Idiappam. |
Non Veg Dishes : | Fishes like Pomfret, Sardines, snapper, crustaceans, Karimeen, Egg and Poultry, Mutton, Beef and Pork. |
Veg Dishes : | Mix Vegetable Avial, Stew with Coconut Milk, Cheena Molagu (local Cuisine), Puzhukku- Root Vegetables. |
Feasts for all Occasions : | Sadyavattams, Aviyal, Olan, Kootu Curry, Puli-inji, Kaalam, Koova. |
Famous Drinks : | Drinks - Kattan Kapi, Black Coffee, Chooku-Kapi (Dried Ginger Brew). |
Not To Be Missed : | Dishes like Crisp Appam, Parakka Kerdatam, Parippu Vada with Coconut Chutney, Vada Sambhar. |
Frying Spree : | Alathur Chips, Nendrankai, Chakkara Varattina Varuval – (Thick Chip cut in Halves or Quarters), Jackfruit (Chakka) Chips. |
Mouth Fresheners: | Murukkan (Betel Leaves and Nuts), Chewing Tobacco. |
Festival Dishes : | Sambar/Kuzhambu Varieties, Rasam Varieties, Kootu/Curry Varieties, Payasam Varieties, Keerai Varieties, Podi Varieties, Rice Delights. |
Sweet Dishes : | Mango Pachadi, Kheema Pulao, Payasam, Sweet Sauce, Milk Rice, Coconut Rice, Vermicelli sweetened with Jaggery, Avalose. |
Traditions of Central Kerala : | Erachi Olathiyathu (Fried Mutton, beef or Pork), Meen Mullgattathu (red fish Curry), Meen Pollichathu (Fish Roasted in plaintain leaf), Prawn Mappas, Peera Pattichattu (fish dish with grated Coconut), Duck Roast and Kozhi Piralen (a fried Chicken). |
Grand Fiesta with Sadhya : | Sadya is Traditional Big Feast. An improperly laid Ela (plantain Leaf) is an indicator. The leaf is laden with Lime Curry, Mango Pickle, Puli-Inji, Lime Pickle. Remaining area is studded with Thoran, Vegetable Strew or Olan, Avail (thick Mixture of Vegetables), Pachadi (Raw Mango and Curd Mixture), Elisseri (Vegetable like Pumpkin or Green Banana). Rice served at the bottom and Rasam (Fiery Pepper Soup) is served throughout the course of the meal. |
ONASADHYA
Onam heralds the harvest festival and is also according to folklore the time of the year when the king Mahabali, the legendary ruler of an ancient golden era in Kerala, returns from the depths of the nether world to visit his beloved subjects.
Onasadhya is the most delicious part of the grand festival called Onam. It is considered to be the most elaborate and grand meal prepared by any civilisation or cultures in the world. It's a feast which if enjoyed once is relished for years.
Onasadhya is prepared on the last day of Onam, called Thiruonam. People of Kerala wish to depict that they are happy and prosperous to their dear King Mahabali whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the time of Onam.
Onasadhya is prepared on the last day of Onam, called Thiruonam. People of Kerala wish to depict that they are happy and prosperous to their dear King Mahabali whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the time of Onam.
Rice is the essential ingredient of this Nine Course Strictly Vegetarian Meals. All together there are 11 essential dishes which have to be prepared for Onasadhya. Number of dishes may at times also go up to 13. Onasadhya is so elaborate a meal that it is called meals, even though it is consumed in one sitting. Onasadhya is consumed with hands; there is no concept of spoon or forks.
Traditional Onasadhya meal comprises of different varieties of curries, upperies - things fried in oil, pappadams which are round crisp flour paste cakes of peculiar make, uppilittathu - pickles of various kinds, chammanthi - the chutney, payasams and prathamans or puddings of various descriptions. Fruits and digestives are also part of the meal.
The food has to be served on a tender Banana leaf, laid with the end to the left. The meal is traditionally served on a mat laid on the floor. A strict order of serving the dishes one after the another is obeyed. Besides, there are clear directions as to what will be served in which part of the banana leaf.
These days Onasadhya has toned down a little due to the urban and hectic living style. Earlier, Onasadhya used to be even more elaborate. There were about 64 mandatory dishes - eight varieties each of the eight dishes. At that time three banana leaves were served one under the other to accommodate all the dishes. How exactly they were accommodated in the tummy...Is a food for thought!
Traditional Onasadhya meal comprises of different varieties of curries, upperies - things fried in oil, pappadams which are round crisp flour paste cakes of peculiar make, uppilittathu - pickles of various kinds, chammanthi - the chutney, payasams and prathamans or puddings of various descriptions. Fruits and digestives are also part of the meal.
The food has to be served on a tender Banana leaf, laid with the end to the left. The meal is traditionally served on a mat laid on the floor. A strict order of serving the dishes one after the another is obeyed. Besides, there are clear directions as to what will be served in which part of the banana leaf.
These days Onasadhya has toned down a little due to the urban and hectic living style. Earlier, Onasadhya used to be even more elaborate. There were about 64 mandatory dishes - eight varieties each of the eight dishes. At that time three banana leaves were served one under the other to accommodate all the dishes. How exactly they were accommodated in the tummy...Is a food for thought!
INGREDIENTS AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET:
- Ash gourd : Kumbalanga
- Asafetida: Kaayam
- Banana : Pazham, Ethapazham
- Bengal gram : Mani Kadala
- Bitter gourd : Kaipakka (Pavakka)
- Black pepper : Kurumulaku
- Cabbage : Mottakkoosu
- Cardamom : Elakkaya
- Cashew nut : Kasuvandipparippu
- Cinnamon : Karuvapatta
- Clove : Karayampoo
- Coconut oil : Velichenna
- Coconut : Nalikeram, Thenga
- Colocasia : Chembu
- Coriander : Malli or Kothamalli
- Cucumber : Vellarikka
- Cumin : Jeerakam
- Drumstick : Muringakkaya
- Egg plant : Vazhuthananga, brinjal
- Fennel : Perumjeerakam
- Fenugreek : Uluva or Vengayam
- Garlic : Veluthulli
- Ginger : Inji
- Gooseberry : Nellikka
- Green Chili : Pacha mulaku
- Green gram : Cherupayar
- Guava : Perakka, Poyyakka, Koyyakka
- Jack fruit : Chakka
- Jaggery : Sarkara (bellam or vellam)
- Milk : Paal
- Mustard seeds : Kaduku
- Nutmeg : Jathikka
- Okra / Lady's finger: Vendakka
- Onion : Ulli, Savala, Sabola
- Papaya : Karmosa, Omakaya, Koppakaya, Papakaya, Pappali , Kappalanga
- Pea : Payar
- Groundnut : Kappalandi or Nilakkadala
- Red gram : Van Payar
- Plantain : Nendrakkaya, Etheka
- Potato : Urulakkizhangu
- Pumpkin : Matthanga
- Raisin : Unakka munthiri, kismis
- Salt : Uppu
- Shallot : Chuvannulli or Cheriyulli
- Snake gourd : Padavalanga
- Sugar : Panjasara
- Tamarind : Puli
- Tapioca : Kolli, Kappa, Marichini, Poolakizhaghu
- Taro : Cheambu
- Tomato : Thakkali
- Black gram : Uzhunnu
Tamil Nadu Cuisine
Tamil Nadu is famous for its hospitality and its deep belief that serving food to others is a service to humanity as is common in many regions of India. The region has a rich cuisine involving both vegetarian and non vegetarian dishes. It is characterized by the use of rice, legumes and lentils, its distinct aroma and flavour achieved by the blending of spices including curry leaves, tamarind, coriander, ginger, garlic, chilli, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, cumin, nutmeg, coconut and rosewater.
Rice and legumes play an important role in Tamil cuisine. Lentils are also consumed extensively, either accompanying rice preparations, or in the form of independent dishes. Vegetables and dairy products are essential accompaniments.
On special occasions, traditional Tamil dishes are prepared in almost the same way as they were centuries ago—preparations that call for elaborate and leisurely cooking, and served in traditional style and ambience. The traditional way of eating a meal involves being seated on the floor, having the food served on a banana leaf, and using clean fingers of the right hand to transfer the food to the mouth. After the meal, the fingers are washed, and the banana leaf becomes food for cows. A typical tamilian would eat Idly/Dosai/uthappam etc for breakfast and rice accompanied by lentil preparations Sambar, Rasam and curd.
Because of modernization, urbanization, cosmopolitan culture and the break-up of the joint family system, compromises and adaptations are being made. A movement towards a simpler cuisine can be sensed. Urbanization has introduced Western-style seating arrangements at traditional events with tables, chairs, plates and cutlery becoming the norm, and food being served buffet-style.
Despite changes in practices and their cultural implications, Tamil cuisine retains its basic character in the use of ingredients, and its aroma and flavour remain unchanged.
Spices Available
Curry leaves
They are used as a seasoning in Indian Cooking. The curry leaves lose their delicate fragrance when dried, you should try to obtain them fresh; don't waste your time with the dried stuff!
Chilly: Powder/fresh/dried:
Now a basic Indian spice, used mainly for its pungent and fiery taste, one may use fresh green or red chillies instead.
Cardamom Pods:
Used to flavour curries, masala chai and certain vegetables and Indian desserts and is one of the spices in Garam masala. Used for its strong but very pleasing flavour.
Cinnamon:
Used for its sweet and pleasing flavour. It is the bark of the cinnamon tree and one of the spices in Garam masala. It is normally used to flavour curries, masala chai and certain vegetables and Indian desserts.
Clove:
Used for its pleasing flavour. And is one of the spices in Garam masala. It easily loses its flavour and is used to flavour curries, masala chai and certain vegetables.
Black Pepper :
Black pepper are used in Indian cuisine at all stages of the cooking process and as a table condiment.
Ginger :
A basic but not essential Indian spice, used for its warming properties and wonderful aroma and taste.
Tamarind:
The Juice of dry Tamarind are adequate to add a touch of sourness in the curry. It is extensively used in south Indian cuisine and is normally used as a replacement for tomatoes.
Fenugreek :
This is a basic but not essential Indian spice which is actually a lentil and is used for its strong, bitter taste. After turmeric it has the most medically useful item in the Indian kitchen. If it is burnt it gets very bitter and should be thrown away.
Special Equipments
Degchi - This utensil is a round and deep pan. It is used for cooking rice puddings or kheer, daals, soup and other foods with liquid on it.
Haandi - Just like the degchi, this utensil is also a round pan. However, it’s shallower and has a wider mouth. It is used for cooking meat and pilafs. Traditionally, people in India use it by covering the pan with plate and sealing it with dough.
Ghara or Kalash - This utensil is a vessel used for storing water, as well as grains. It has a round and broad bottom.
Lota - Lota is similar to kalash, only smaller in size. It is used not for storing but for drinking and washing of hands.
Karchi - This utensil is a ladle used for curries, gravies, as well as lentils. It is used for scooping and cooking liquids and sauces.
Palta or Khunti - Palta is a spatula like utensil used for frying meat, as well as vegetables and fish. It makes turning over of food easier. It usually has a triangular or rectangular headpiece.
Pressure cooking is a method of cooking in a sealed vessel that does not permit air or liquids to escape below a preset pressure. Because the boiling point of water increases as the pressure increases, the pressure built up inside the cooker allows the liquid in the pot to rise to a higher temperature before boiling.
Wet grinder, a grinder used with water. Wet grinders have a wide application in industry, workshops, and commercial and domestic kitchens throughout Africa and Asia. Kitchen wet grinders are very popular tools in the South Indian kitchen used to make paste out of soaked grains and lentils.
Regional
Over a period of time, each geographical area where Tamils have lived has developed its own distinct variant of the common dishes in addition to dishes native to itself.
The Chettinad region comprising of Karaikudi and adjoining areas is known for both traditional vegetarian dishes like appam, uthappam, paal paniyaram and non-vegetarian dishes made primarily using chicken. Chettinad cuisine has gained popularity in non-Tamil speaking areas as well.
Madurai, Tirunelveli and the other southern districts of Tamil Nadu are known for non-vegetarian food made of Mutton, chicken and fish. Parota made with maida or all-purpose flour, and loosely similar to the north Indian wheat flour-based Paratha, is served at food outlets in Tamil Nadu, especially in districts like Virudhunagar, Tuticorin, Tirunelveli and the adjoining areas. Parota is not commonly made at home as it is laborious and time consuming. Madurai has its own unique foods such as Jigarthanda, Muttaiparotta (minced parotta and scrambled egg), Paruthipal & Ennaidosai (dosai with lots of oil) which are rarely found in other parts of Tamil Nadu.
Nanjilnadu (Kanyakumari district) region is famous for its fish curry since the region is surrounded by the three great water bodies of Asia (Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal). Fish forms an integral part of life. Owing to its unique cultural affinity and the availability of coconut, coconut oil forms a base for almost all the preparations of the region.
The western Kongunadu region has specialities like Santhakai/Sandhavai (a noodle like item of rice), Oputtu (a sweet tasting pizza-like dish that is dry outside with a sweet stuffing), and kola urundai (meat balls), Thengai Paal (Sweet Hot Milk made of Jaggery, Coconut and cotton seeds), Ulundu Kali(Sweet made out of Jaggery, Gingely Oil and Black Gram), Ragi puttumavu, Arisi Puttumavu, Vazhaipoo Poriyal, Kambu Paniyaram, Ragi Pakoda, Thengai Parpi, Kadalai Urundai, Ellu Urundai, Pori Urundai. The natural crops of this region forms the main ingredients in this Kongunadu cuisine
Ceylon Tamil cuisine bears similarities to Tamil Nadu cuisine but also has many unique vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. It features dishes such as puttu (steamed rice cake) and Idiyappam or Sevai, (known in other parts of the world as string hoppers).
Eating-out in its capital city Chennai, is a great experience and provides a glimpse of the unique lifestyle of the city. Chennai is known for its cuisine, brought to the city by people who have migrated from different parts of Tamil Nadu. Chennai has a large collection of restaurants, some of them are unique 'Speciality Restaurants,' which serve 'Indian Cuisine' with an ambience to match, while most others cater South Indian Tiffin and meals, at very reasonable prices.
Meals - Restaurant
A Tamilian meal (Saapadu) in a restaurant would consist of rice with other typical tamilian dishes in Banana leaf. A typical tamilian would eat in banana leaf as it gives different flavour and taste to the food. But it also served on a stainless steel tray with a selection of different dishes in small bowls.
Rice, even if in a modest quantity, seems to be essential to the popular definition of meals. While North Indian thali (meals) consists mainly Indian breads like Chapati, Roti, Paratha, Phulka or Naan along with rice, Tamil meals (Saapadu) comes mostly with rice. In North Indian cuisine Pooris, Chappattis are offered first and the waiter serves the rice later, often in a separate bowl.
Paayasam is usually served at the end as a sweet/dessert to finish the meal.
Finally a banana, beeda, and a glass of juice or lassi will be offered. One can eat the authentic Tamilian sambar and other tamilian dishes in a restaurant from Tamil Nadu. Rest all of the restaurants in other south Indian states like Andhra, Kerala and Karnataka and north India have their own variations which are not authentic.
Influence abroad
Historically, Tamil cuisine has travelled to many parts of the world. Most notably traces were found by archaeologists that Tamil cuisines were supplied to the ancient Rome. It travelled to Greece, Middle East, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand via traders (Nagarathar) from Tamil Nadu who are Karaikudi Chettiars. Along with Chinese, it has influenced these international cuisines to what they are today; especially one can see the impact of Tamil cuisine in Malaysian cuisines like parotta kurma (Roti canai/Roti Telur) and curried items. South African Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Mauritius, and Réunion. Indian cooking is also influenced by Tamil cuisine, which was brought by Indians in the late 19th century.
Festivals
Pongal Festival
Pongal is one of such highly revered festivals celebrated in Tamil Nadu to mark the harvesting of crops by farmers. Held in the middle of January, it is the time when the people get ready to thank God, Earth and their Cattle for the wonderful harvest and celebrate the occasion with joyous festivities and rituals.
The four-day Harvest festival is celebrated all over the state in January. The festival begins on the last day of the Tamil month with Bhogi Pongal followed by Surya
The four-day Harvest festival is celebrated all over the state in January. The festival begins on the last day of the Tamil month with Bhogi Pongal followed by Surya
First Day
The first day of the festival is called Bhogi. On Bhogi all people clean out their homes from all corners, and collect all unwanted goods. In the evening, people will light bonfires and burn what can be burnt.
Second day
The second day of the festival, Surya Pongal, is the day on which the celebrations actually begins, is the first day of the Tamil month Thai. On this day, Surya, the sun God is worshipped and women will wake early on this day to create elaborate kolum on the grounds in front of their doorway or home. Kolums are created with coloured rice flour placed on the ground carefully by using one's hand.
Third day
The third day is called Maatu Pongal, maatu meaning cattle. This day is devoted to paying homage to cattle. Cows and Bulls are decorated with paint and bells and people pray to them.
Natyanjali Dance Festival
Festivals have great value in Chidambaram. The Natyanjali festival dedicated to the Cosmic Dancer (Lord Shiva) is celebrated every year during February-March. Lord Nataraja, according to Hindu mythology is the cosmic dancer. He is also called "the Lord of Dances".
Natyanjali festival opens on the auspicious occasion of the Maha Shivaratri day and of course in the right kind of venue - the 'Prakara' of the Chidambaram temple. The magnificent temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, built a thousand years ago, provides a beautiful backdrop for the event. The setting is truly divine-Chidambaram's gold-roofed temple, with pillars depicting Lord Nataraja in 108 poses from Bharatanatyam - Tamil Nadu's classical dance.
Karthigai Deepam
Karthigai Deepam Festival is the festival of light of Tamil Nadu. It is a nine day festival and on all days houses are illuminated with many lights and lamps. On important days between these days, beautiful processions of many deities are taken out.
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Typical Tamil feast - Virundhu Sappadu
‘Virundhu’ in Tamil means ‘guest’, when guests (friends and relatives) are invited during happy ceremonial occasions to share food. ‘Sappadu’ means a full course meal, which can be either lunch or dinner.
During Virundhu Sappadu, guests sit on a coir mat which is rolled out on the floor and a full course meal is served in the traditional way, on a ‘Banana Leaf’ which is spread in front of the guests, with the tip pointed left.
Virundhu - ‘Sappadu’ served on a Banana leaf
The host will ensure that the menu includes as many varieties of dishes as possible and guests are served as many helpings as requested. The dishes are served in a particular sequence, and each dish is placed on a particular spot of the banana leaf. Guests are expected to begin and end eating the meal together and do not leave in middle of a meal. With a look at the food on the leaf, guests will have a good idea of the community, wealth, and the region from which part of Tamil Nadu the hosts originate.
Arrangement of dishes on a banana leaf
The top half of the banana leaf is reserved for accessories, the lower half for the rice. In some communities, the rice will be served only after the guest has been seated. The lower right portion of the leaf may have a scoop of warm sweet milky rice Payasam, Kesari, Sweet Pongal or any Dessert items. While the top left includes a pinch of salt, a dash of pickle and a thimbleful of salad, or a smidgen of chutney. In the middle of the leaf there may be an odd number of fried items like small circles of chips either banana, yam or potato, thin crisp papads or frilly wafers Appalams and vadai.
The top right hand corner is reserved for spicy foods including, Curry, hot, sweet, or sour and the dry items. If it is a vegetarian meal, the vegetables are carefully chosen, between the country ones-gourds, drumsticks, brinjals and the 'English' ones, which could be carrot, cabbage, and cauliflower. (If it is a non-vegetarian meal, a separate leaf is provided for the fried meats, chicken, fish, crab, and so on.) But again, the variations are presented carefully, one dry one next to a gravied one.
There may be side attractions such as Poli, Poori, Chappati; few of the famed rice preparations such as Ghee Pongal or Puliyodarai (tamarind rice) particularly if the family comes from Thanjavur, known as the rice bowl of Tamil Nadu.
Traditionally, sweets are eaten first. After having worked through the preliminaries, the long haul starts with rice. Sambar is added to rice and eaten with maybe a sprinkling of ghee. This is followed by rice with Kuzhambu and rice with Rasam. A final round of rice with curd or buttermilk signals the end of meals. Though there are varieties of kuzhambu, only one will be on offer in a given day. A banana may be served last.
After the meals, betel leaves and nuts are chewed in a leisurely way. Hearty banter and small talks of the times gone by are discussed with nostalgia. It is a time to reminisce the past. The betel leaf chewing is a traditional habit and was a preserve of the older folks. The betel leaf is packed into a little 'package' with edible calcium paste layered on top and a pinch of coarsely powdered betel nuts.
Commonly consumed items
Rice is the major staple food of most of the Tamil people. Lunch or Dinner is usually a meal of steamed rice, served with accompanying items, which typically include sambar, dry curry, rasam, kootu and thayir (curd, but as used in India refers to yoghurt) or more (buttermilk).
Tiffin or Light meals, which is often served for breakfast or as an evening snack, usually include one or more dishes like idli, Pongal, Dosai, Chapathi, Sevai, Vadai which are of 2 kinds - (medhuvadai meaning soft vadai and paruppuvadai meaning lentils vadai) Vadai, along with coconut Chutney, Sambar and Milagai podi. Tiffin is usually accompanied by hot filter coffee, the signature beverage of the city.
Chettinad dishes like appam, uthappam.
Parota made with maida or all-purpose flour, perhaps similar to the north Indian wheat flour-based paratha.
Upma, made from wheat (rava), onion, green chillies. May also be substituted with broken rice granules, flattenned rice flakes, Or almost any other cereal grain instead of broken wheat.
Sevai or idiyappam, Rice noodles made out of steamed rice cakes.
Filter coffee is very popular in and around Chennai (Madras).
Coffee is the most popular beverage. Coffee is a major social institution in Southern Indian Tamil tradition. It’s also called the Madras (a) Chennai Filter Coffee and is unique to this part of the world. They generally use gourmet coffee beans of the premium Peaberry or the less expensive Arabica variety. The making of filter coffee is like a ritual, as the coffee beans are first roasted and then powdered. Sometimes they add chicory to enhance the aroma. They then use a filter set, few scoops of powdered coffee, enough boiling water is added to prepare a very dark liquid called the decoction. A 3/4 mug of hot milk with sugar, a small quantity of decoction is then served in Dabarah/Tumbler set, a unique Coffee cup.
Another popular beverage is strongly brewed tea found in the thousands of small tea stalls across the state of Tamil Nadu and adjoining areas.
The South Indian Breakfast and meals served on a banana leaf
Dosai, crepes made from a fermented batter of rice and urad dal (Black gram), and is accompanied by Sambar; also see Masala dosai
Idli, steamed rice-cakes, prepared from a fermented batter of rice and urad dal (Black gram), and side-dishes are usually different kinds of chutney or sambhar
Upma/Uppittu, prepared from semolina (rava), onion, green chillies, and certain spices
Puliyodarai, Puli=Tamarind, thorai/thoran=fry, is a popular Tamil dish and widely specialised among Tamil Iyengars and famous throughout Karnataka as Puliyogare. It is a mixture of fried tamarind paste and cooked rice. The tamarind paste is fried with sesame oil, asafoetida & fenugreek powder, dried chilly, groundnuts, split chickpea, urad dal, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, curry leaves, turmeric powder and seasoned with light jaggery and salt.
Sambar, a thick stew of lentils with vegetables and seasoned with exotic spices
Rasam, lentil soup with pepper, coriander and cumin seeds
Thayir sadam, steamed rice with curd
Sevai or Idiyappam, rice noodles made out of steamed rice cakes.
Appam
Kottu
Other snack items include murukku, seedai, bajji, mixture, sevu, and pakoda which are typically savory items.
Specialities
Koozh - Porridge, also called Kanji. It is made from millet.
Kootu - a stew of vegetables or varieties of spinach, with a small amount of lentils, tamarind and black pepper which makes for a side dish for a meal consisting of rice, sambhar and rasam.
Pittu - Made with roasted rice flour or roasted rice flour and steamed maida/ Flour is mixed with warm water and broken into small lumps. It is steamed pittu cylinder; grated coconut is used in between portions to make small wheels.
Tamil culinary terminology absorbed in English
The word curry is an Anglicisation of the Tamil word Kari.
The Tamil phrase milagu thanneer meaning pepper soup, literally pepper water, has been adapted in English as mulligatawny.
The word Mango is derived from the Tamil word Maangaai.
The English word Rice may have been ultimately derived from Tamil Arisi. The Kannada Akki is a cognate with same roots.
The word Congee may have most probably derived from the Tamil word 'Kanji' (Rice Porridge).